By John Lucas
Greece has constantly had its admirers, although none turns out to have loved the Athenian tavernas, the murderous site visitors and the jaded prostitutes, the petty bureaucratic tyrannies, the road noise and the heroic individualists with the irony and detachment of John Lucas. Lucas' love for the realities of Greece ultimately banishes the banality of a half-century of tourism during this number of memoirs and tales.
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P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO AU S T R I A If you’re interested in riding the rapids of a swift mountain stream or just paddling around on a placid lake, don’t miss the chance to go canoeing in Austria. You can canoe down slow-flowing lowland rivers such as the Inn or Mur, or tackle the wild waters of glacier-fed mountain streams suitable only for experts. Special schools for fast-water paddling operate May through September in the village of Klaus on the Steyr River in Upper Austria, in Opponitz in Lower Austria on the Ybbs River, and in Abtenau in Salzburg province.
They virtually always offer the best exchange rate, and there’s no accompanying service charge. Credit cards are widely accepted in Austria; American Express, Visa, and Diners Club are the most commonly recognized. A EUROCARD or ACCESS sign displayed at an establishment means that it accepts MasterCard. ATMs ATMs are prevalent in all Austrian cities and even the smaller towns. ATMs are linked to a national network that most likely includes your bank at home. Both the Cirrus (& 800/424-7787; www.
Many of these areas offer more than just fine powder. The Valley of Gastein was known for its medicinal thermal springs long before it became a ski center. The people of Schladming, in the Dachstein mountains, wore their local costumes and lodens well before the first cross-country skier discovered the high plateau surrounding the small, unspoiled village of Ramsau. Among the most attractive large-scale skiing areas are the Radstädter Tauern region and Saalbach/Hinterglemm in Salzburg province.
92 Acharnon Street by John Lucas